Umbria, Day 1

(There was a delay in postings for several reasons: 1. tech issues 2. the time it takes to upload pics onto the blog from my villa 3: a lot of stormy nights 4: too much fun! I decided I’m only doing what feels comfortable, and what I want to do! So it’s coming in slower than expected, but enjoy!!)

After waking a bit late (8:00 am), Jerry and I left the room to stop for a quick cappuccino on the way to our walk through the Borghese Gardens. We stopped along the way to take pictures of the amazing women’s and men’s shoes, gloves, ties and shirts! I love the colors, the enthusiasm, the enjoyment of dressing.

The gardens remind me so much of central park, but the trees seem much older. I stand enthralled, looking up at these magestic trees that seem as tall as the California redwoods. As we stroll, I’m reminded of the blending of old and new that is Roma, for example, the orange metro station contrasting with the ancient walls of the city.  Turning back, we stroll to our hotel where again, the polizie and carabinieri hang in the lobby, their cars filling the parking area. Obviously, yet another political figure or illuminati is there.

I posted this on facebook yesterday: ”As we arrived back at the hotel late this afternoon, Caribinieri and lots of Italian men in blue suits were everywhere.. We had to pause to let the President of Lebanon out of our elevator, guarded simply by one man next to him. A man entering the elevator with us, suitcase in hand, held his hand to his heart, smiling graciously at the President. We watched as the man shook the President’s hand. On the elevator, the man said, in English, “He is my President.” He was clearly moved. Amazing that this man happened to be walking by him at just that moment, in Italy, entering the same elevator he stepped out of. It was a sweet moment.”

These are the amazing, inspired moments that happen while traveling. Today, we notice the license plate of a Maserati! from Liberia! I have no idea what goes on in this hotel, but clearly, politics plays a big role. Here we are out strolling, drinking capuccinos, taking pictures, and back at the ranch, deals are being made, the likes of which we have no idea!

Before we know it,  we are ensconced in our taxi, with a driver who is taking us to Fiumicino to pick up our car. He is very jocular and talkative and his cell phone is ringing every few minutes. It never ceases to amaze me the way these Italian taxi drivers can talk on the phone, look behind them all while driving forward and carrying on a conversation with us – and dealing with traffic in Rome!

We grab our car, and head north toward Umbria. As we leave Rome, the countryside grows greener, more picturesque. We stop in the town of Montecastello dei Vibio, supposedly, the larger town nearest where we will be staying in Fratta Todino. It is Saturday afternoon, so of course, everything is closed as everyone is home having lunch. As we walk this medieval city, we are amazed at its beauty, cleanliness and peace. It is absolutely stunning! Staring at the views, we are awestruck- literally about 240 degrees. Pictures don’t begin to do it justice.

Wiggling our way through the countryside, we find Fratta Todina, another medieval walled city, except half the size (which is not saying much!) Again, we are touched by the beauty, the simplicity, the sweetness of the older women who direct us to the local market.  “Sera” to everyone we meet, and vice versa. We find the butcher woman, who tells us she makes her own soprassata (which is DIVINE!) and convinces us to buy her amazing Pecorino (which she, too, samples) – and we are blown away.

We head to the villa, pausing to let someone driving quickly behind us go by us as we try to wend our way through dirt roads. We have to literally drive over the low river to our new home for the month. Upon arrival, we find nirvana – This villa, which was previously named “Villa Rosa” but which has been renamed “Villa dolce vita” – is stunning.

We dive in, head first, and “La Villa dolce vita” swallows us whole, and we are glad.

The first thing we notice are the white seed pods floating through the air. The owner apologizes for them, but we find them positively enchanting! It is like summer snow ~ Turns out they are cottonwood trees that send off seed for about 4 days in early summer. I find them mesmerizing, as they collect in the corners of the patio, float with the breeze amongst the trees and planters. More joy upon us!

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